The Immigrant Llama

These natives of the Andes are an elegant and ecologically superior pack animal in the high Sierra, and potential companions for two ex-physicians contemplating senility.

For me, the llamas were love at first sight. I found the baby-eyed, incredibly sweet-breathed, graceful ruminants to be sturdy, mountain-wise companions. Furthermore, I now wonder what I ever did see in being my own beast of burden, and a relatively limited one at that. I found new delight in the luxury of taking along all those things which make life easy above tree line, but which I could not carry by myself. At last I realized that I never did actually enjoy carrying 50 pounds on my back.

A few years ago entrepreneurs began to import llamas from South America. Breeding animals were initially very costly, often selling for $10,000 or more. These efforts have not been profitable; although their meat is nourishing, tasty and low in fat, llamas are apparently not great producers. Despite their merits, neither llama meat nor wool has taken hold in North America.

The immigrant llama, on the other hand, has thrived, at least in the domestic state, and is seen quite frequently, especially in the Western US. There are now many thousands of llama owners, breeders and packers in the U S. A broad range of suppliers, and literature exists. Locally for example, the Gold Country Llama Association claims over 100 members; most are breeders, but their brochure lists seven nearby commercial llama packers. The price, training and maturation of the mature pack llama is roughly comparable to that of a horse.

The llama, like the potato, was domesticated by pre-Columbian indigenous peoples in South America. A native to the Andes, llamas are particularly well adapted to mountain terrain, and are commonly used in the altiplano as pack animals. They are ruminants that regurgitate and chew like cattle. As browsers they can generally live off the land, and do not pillage and destroy all vegetation, as do goats. Their feet are padded, and therefore much less destructive of terrain, leaving no deeply rutted and eroded trails like horses.

Llamas can weigh considerably more than 150 pounds, and can carry from 60 to 100 pounds nicely, pound for pound relatively more than a horse or mule. They are capable of defending themselves from carnivores. Endowed with extremely acute vision and smell, a male llama, raised and bonded with sheep, makes a very efficient and effective shepherd which will detect, attack and drive off predators.

Ecologically and practically, pack llamas are far superior to ungulates, or hoofed animals. Humanity is constrained universally, however, by preconceptions, cultural restrictions and subtle prejudice. In South America, where I visit often, I have never seen the llama used as a pack animal by other than indigenous South American Indians. The European Conquistadors were, and are, horse worshipers. The horse was historically a formidable and fearsome animal, able to carry warriors as well as considerable loads. Even the word for gentleman in Spanish is caballero, or horseman; as always, language refiects and molds thought, thinking and culture. The conquered peoples, and their llamas as well, remain stigmatized by history and the past. No conquistador would tolerate being seen leading llama about.

However, the llama has been seen with new eyes in North America; eyes unblinded by the brilliant fire of Cortez and Pizarro. Eyes which saw mountain ranges as safe houses far from the toxic wastes of modern living. Small llama herdsmen began to use llamas for pack animals in the Sierras. Light new material was adapted to make well-fitting, comfortable and practical packs, like double saddlebags. Small horse trailers, utility trailers, pickup trucks, even Volkswagen microbuses were enlisted to move the llamas to trailheads. What has evolved is the North American Pack Llama, employing new equipment and techniques. Today there are commercial llama trainers and packers who provide full service pack trips, so reasonably and efficiently as to threaten traditional horse pack outfitters.

The quick and dirty way to llama pack is to contract with a professional, who will trailer the llamas to the trail head, and pack in and out, with or without full services. One local provider charges roughly $30 daily per llama, and $1.50 per mile for trailering. But my friend, Tom, is more adventuresome than most. We first took a four-hour course in loading, and managing llamas, then a three-day trial by immersion in the Eastern Sierras. We used mature llamas that were well-trained and in good condition, accustomed to packing. Though our experience was very positive, we were probably just lucky. There is much to be learned. Some llamas will head for home if they get loose; and it is very hard to catch a loose llama. The llamas tend to just sit down when something is amiss. One must learn to figure out what the problem is. And also how to get them up. They tend to try to jump over obstacles, pack and all. One must lead the llama with care, and thoughtfulness, so as not to erode the trust necessary for the animal to follow with confidence. They must be loaded carefully, and evenly. They can kick in all directions, and even though their feet are leathery, they can knock a pesky dog 20 feet in the air.

They don't often spit, but when angry or upset can regurgitate forcefully through a locked-open mouth. They are almost never friendly, even if they look cuddly, but on the other hand neither are they treacherous or aggressive. They are usually trustworthy about browsing, but a number of plants, domestic and wild, are poisonous. A few leaves of rhododendron or oleander can be fatal. Less dangerous but common toxic plants include laurel, some ivies, bleeding heart, bracken fern, all sneeze weeds, and of course nightshade (belladonna) or foxglove (digitalis).

Tom and I later attended a one-day course by octogenarian Rudy Stuaffer of Placerville on llama packing and husbandry.

In any event, Tom and I hope to continue learning and enjoying llama packing with these immigrant camelids. It has been well worth the effort so far. It is our thought that we can become competent, and in the sometime future, as ex-physicians, keep a few choice, well-trained and well-maintained llamas. If so, perhaps we can continue to enjoy these unique alpine-wise animals and the mountain worlds they dominate so well, into an indefinite and pleasant senility.

lufboro@jps.net